Portofino Italy: 10 Perfect Things to Do in this Italian Riviera Gem

Portofino, Italy, in the heart of Liguria, is the epitome of Italian Riviera eye candy.

The rounded harbor is a scene straight from a postcard. Think colorful buildings, waterfront dining, crystal-clear waters, fishing boats, expensive yachts, and perfectly placed cypress trees on the green cliffs in the background.

It’s a beautiful playground for the rich, famous, glamorous, and anyone who wants to feel that way if only for an afternoon.

I’ve visited several times and wanted to share the best things to do in Portofino so you can make the most of your time there!

1. Take in the Beautiful Portofino Harbor Scene.

The Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta is the beautiful main square in front of Portofino’s harbor. It’s the most iconic spot for photos, sitting, or strolling with a gelato.

Walk the perimeter of the square to take in the complete village scene and for stunning views of the sea and the hills above as you look back at the harborfront.

Sometimes, I like to sit and dangle my feet into the water just to watch the boats come and go. (Or on one occasion, a parade of luxury cars from Ferraris to Lamborghinis circle the town square before heading elsewhere!)

Just beyond the harbor, spend some time wandering along the small streets. The town is small and it’s impossible to lose your way if you’re oriented with the harbor in mind.

Go in search of the bell tower you can see from the harborfront. It’s part of the beautiful Romanesque Church of San Martino, a beautiful Romanesque with its yellow and gray striped facade.

2. Eat with a Harbor View.

One of the most popular things to do in Portofino is simply to sit at one of the waterfront restaurants for lunch or a snack. The seaside ambiance is irresistibly romantic.

If you’re arriving by ferry, I recommend walking a bit into the square so that you can eat slightly away from a main walkway but still in a prime spot to enjoy the atmosphere. For example, Trattoria Tripoli and Taverna del Marinaio have good food and are tucked back enough so you don’t have a steady stream of people walking by your table.

No matter which restaurant you choose, check their website to see if they offer reservations. It’ll make things a lot smoother, especially during peak summer months.

Be sure to try something with pesto or a dish with fresh seafood. They’re the specialties of the Liguria region.

ProTip: When eating in Portofino, keep in mind you are in one of the most touristy places in Italy. The food will be good in many places but it’ll also be a lot more expensive. Eating in less popular towns nearby like Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli, and Rapallo will absolutely give you a more authentic experience with better prices.

3. Visit the Church of San Giorgio.

Up on the cliff overlooking Portofino, you can see the yellow Church of Saint George from the harbor.

The church is famous not only for its prime position as part of Portofino’s townscape but also because it holds the relics of St. George.

The short walk up the hill takes just a few minutes and also has great views from this vantage point. It’s easy from here to continue along and visit Castello Brown and the Portofino Lighthouse.

4. Go to Castello Brown for the Best View of Portofino.

There’s a good number of people who visit Portofino who never make the 10-minute walk up to Castello Brown. Don’t be one of them! The panoramic views of Portofino’s harbor and the sea are stunning.

The castle sits on top of the hill and has roots back to Roman times when it was first used for coastal defense. Over the years, it was expanded into the 16th-century castle and grounds you see today.

You can go inside to tour the rooms which have some information about Portofino’s history including photography of some of the celebrities who’ve spent time in there. Along the way, there are pretty Genovese tiles and medieval ceiling paintings.

Outside, you can walk through the gardens along what remains of the ancient Roman walls for gorgeous views overlooking Portofino and the coastline.

5. Watch the Sunset from the Portofino Lighthouse.

From the Castello Brown, continue along the path to the Portofino Lighthouse (Faro di Portofino). It’s just about a 10-minute walk from the castle out to the edge of the Portofino peninsula.

At the lighthouse, you’ll have the best views of the Gulf of Tigullio. I like to go to Il Faretto, a bar with a terrace near the lighthouse that is perfect for an aperitivo. Otherwise, you can simply enjoy the scenery. As the sun drops and it gets closer to sunset, you’ll have amazing western views of the orange sky.

6. Hike in Portofino Natural Park.

Portofino is also part of the Portofino Regional Natural Park.

Within the park, there are about 50 miles of paths that connect Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Portofino, as well as smaller villages or scenic spots like San Rocco or San Fruttuoso.

Along the way, you’ll get amazing sea and Ligurian coastal views before arriving in Portofino. Check out the park’s map of trails here.

One of the most popular hikes is between Portofino and San Fruttuoso which will take around 2 hours to do. Along the way, you’ll weave in and out of forested areas (great for some shade!) and get the chance to see the fantastic views of the sea.

ProTip: If you hike, bring water or refill your water in Portofino before you go. Also, wear shoes for hiking. You’ll find trails for all levels but regardless, flip-flops and strappy sandals aren’t going to cut it.

7. Visit Surreal San Fruttuoso.

This hidden inlet between Portofino and Camogli is one of the gems of the Ligurian coastline. Every time I visit, I’m always amazed by the scene.

Imagine turquoise water in a made-for-swimming cove against a backdrop of a 10th-century monastery surrounded by forested coastal cliffs that lead to the trails of the Portofino Regional Park. If it sounds surreal, it is.

While you’re there, visit the Abbey of San Fruttuoso or snorkel out to catch a glimpse of the Christ of the Abyss statue below the water just off shore.

San Fruttuoso can only be reached by foot or boat. Both of which are easy to do from Portofino during the warmer months.

It’s well worth a bit of your time when you’re visiting Portofino to see San Fruttuoso, too!

8. Spend the Day at Paraggi Beach.

Just near Portofino is one of the prettiest beaches in Liguria. It’s known for its stunning crystal clear water and is the only sandy beach in easy walking distance from the center of town. (Many of Liguria’s beaches are more rocky and pebbley than sandy.)

The beach is tucked into a cove between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure, with a walking trail within the Portofino Regional Park that can take you to the beach from Portofino in about 20 minutes. The path (called the “Passeggiata/Sentiero dei Baci” or Path of Kisses) runs parallel to the road that runs along the coast.

Alternatively, you could take the #782 bus which runs from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino and makes stops at Paraggi. I’ve written more information about this bus below, but just keep in mind, that it still could be faster and more pleasant to walk than manage the bus during the busy summer season.

Paraggi Beach is split between the Bagni Fiore private beach club and a public area. There are also beach bars and restaurants. Langosteria is my favorite!

If you’d like to rent a beach lounger and umbrella at the beach club, be prepared to pay a steep fee. Still, it’s the best beach within easy reach from Portofino’s harborfront and an absolutely gorgeous place to spend a day on the Italian Riviera.

ProTip: If you’re looking for a no-frills, lesser-known place to swim, head to Spiaggia dell’Olivetta. This rocky waterfront spot, just a short walk from Castello Brown, is not exactly a beach but still a good place to cool off. Walk down the Via dell’Olivetta (you’ll see it on Google Maps) and down the stairs. Bring water shoes if you have them, and remember you’ll need to walk back up the stairs when you’re ready to head back to town.

9. Enjoy the Ligurian Sea.

The water off the coast of Liguria is irresistible.

Even if you don’t want to spend a day on the beach, you can go snorkeling, kayaking, or simply watch the sunset from a boat offshore.

Here are a few ideas to inspire your Portofino trip planning.

• Go for an easy kayaking adventure between Portofino and Paraggi Beach.
• Do some guided snorkeling at Paraggi Beach. It’s a protected marine area with great chances to see a lot of underwater life.
• Try paddleboarding in the Mediterranean Sea between Portofino and Paraggi Beach.
• Go for a boat ride to see this stunning section of Italian coastline. This boat tour starts in Rapallo and this boat tour starts in Santa Margherita Ligure. Both are better priced than some of the boat tour options departing directly from Portofino. Both travel to Portofino and other spots along the coast.

10. Go Shopping.

If you were looking to buy luxury designer goods on your Italy trip, Portofino will likely have what you’re looking for.

In the center of town, you’ll find brands like Dolce and Gabbana, Ferragamo, and Louis Vuitton, as well as shops selling custom jewelry, that are in line with Portofino’s glitzy reputation.

Shops also sell things to help you remember the Italian Riviera once you’re back home like hand-painted ceramics and Ligurian olive oil.

Just keep in mind, Portofino is an expensive destination and shopping here doesn’t come cheap.

Planing Your Visit to Portofino

With any popular place in Italy like Venice or the Cinque Terre, you need to know what to expect and have a plan before visiting.

Best Time to Visit Portofino

My advice about when to visit most places in Italy is during the shoulder seasons, spring and fall. My recommendation for Portofino is the same.

During the high season in summer, and especially on weekends, Portofino is packed with people, and transportation to and from the town is overcrowded. It’s even difficult to walk around the harbor. May, early June, and September have beautiful weather and fewer people. It’s the ideal time to visit.

If you can’t make it then, late April (think after Easter) and early October are also pleasant times to visit. Plus, it’s easier hiking weather for the trails in Portofino Regional Park.

In winter, Portofino is chilly, and some restaurants, shops, and hotels close for the season.

Where to Stay in Portofino

To stay in Portofino is to splurge (and I don’t say that lightly)! The hotels and accommodations in Portofino mostly cater to upscale guests and luxurious stays.

If you’d like to stay here, take a look at these places to stay:

• Hotel Splendido, A Belmond Hotel: This 5-star hotel is the essence of luxury in Portofino. It’s set up on the hill and has panoramic views of the harbor.
• Splendido Mare, A Belmond Hotel: Another 5-star luxury hotel, just steps from the harbor in Portofino.
• Hotel Piccolo Portofino: A 4-star boutique hotel with easy access to the town center and sea views.
• Imperiale Palace Hotel: Located in the nearby town of Santa Margherita Ligure, this 5-star hotel offers a luxurious stay and easy access to Portofino…at a somewhat more digestible price point.

Most people can’t afford to stay at Hotel Splendido but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy it for a short while. Make a reservation to have lunch there or go for an apperitivo so you can experience the atmosphere and swoon over the incredible views.

How to Get to Portofino

First and foremost, don’t drive to Portofino. Yes, it’s technically possible but it’s the kind of Italian nightmare you’re most likely trying to avoid on your trip.

Portofino is mostly car-free. There’s one parking garage that is always full, leaving anyone with a car stuck without a plan and having to drive away in search of parking in a neighboring town and make their way back via public transportation.

The best way to get to Portofino is by boat, public bus, or even on foot.

Ferries run between Portofino and Genoa, Sestri Levante, Lavagna, Chiavari, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, and San Fruttuoso. Some of these lines will connect in Santa Margherita Ligure.

Of these, Genoa, Santa Margherita Ligure, and San Fruttuoso are the most commonly used by visitors trying to get to Portofino. You can check the schedules here.

I’ve also written a guide about doing a day trip from Genoa to Portofino if you’re coming from there.

Portofino doesn’t have its own train station. But you can take a train to the Santa Margherita Ligure-Portofino Station which leaves you a few miles from the center of Portofino. From there, you can take a ferry or a bus.

The #782 bus takes about 20-30 minutes and stops outside the train station in Santa Margherita Ligure. Tickets are sold on board the bus or you can buy them at a tabaccheria. (This is a tobacco and newspaper shop usually indicated with a “T” on the sign outside.)

Taxis may also be available from the train station but expect a high price tag for this convenience relative to the actual distance traveled.

Portofino is also part of the Portofino Regional Park. Trails connect Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Portofino so it’s easy to hike into town for the day or afternoon and then continue hiking or use ferries, the bus, and/or the train from Santa Margherita Ligure to get back to where you need to finish the day.

How Much Time in Portofino

If you’re goal is to see the town and walk to the main sights like Castello Brown and the lighthouse on the hill, you won’t need more than a few hours for this, not including a leisurely lunch or simply enjoying the seaside views with a drink or gelato.

But, if you’d like to hike, spend a day at the beach, and visit nearby places like San Fruttuoso, Camogli, and Santa Margherita Ligure, you could easily spend 3 days in the area. For this, though, you could also stay in one of these nearby towns for more affordable hotels and still be within easy reach of Portofino.

Is Portofino Worth Visiting: My (somewhat local) Take

I live for part of the year in Piemonte and can easily visit Liguria, which I’ve done often. I’ve visited Portofino numerous times with guests who have it on their Italy bucket list or even just to have a posh, romantic afternoon with my husband. Here’s my take on Portofino.

Portofino is absolutely beautiful! It’s swanky and a mixture of tourists and jet-setters. For your social media photos, it perfectly idealizes La Dolce Vita and what people imagine when they think of Italy in the summer. All of these are positives as long as you know what to expect.

What it lacks perhaps is a more local, authentic vibe which you’ll find in nearby places like Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Rapallo. It’s also very pricey, especially when you realize you can have a delicious pesto lunch for a lot less in other places along the sea and not sacrifice any of the beauty. But also, part of what you’re paying for is the location.

So, if you’re only looking for the “real” Italian Riviera with more locals than tourists, Portofino might not be exactly what you’re searching for.

Ideally, I’d recommend you visit Portofino and also spend time in a place like Santa Margherita Ligure or Camogli so you can experience both and explore all the hidden gems tucked into the hills between Camogli and Santa Margherita Ligure. Altogether, this would combine for a spectacular Italian Riviera itinerary.

Inspired to Visit Portofino?

One look at the colorful, iconic harborfront of this Ligurian fishing village, and how could you not?!

Put that together with the surrounding natural beauty of the sea and the green hills, not to mention the ritzy seaside glamour, and you’ll understand what makes Portofino so magnetic.

I hope this guide is helpful as you plan your trip to Portofino and northern Italy!

Have questions about these best things to do in Portofino? Let me know.

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