I love discovering hidden gems, especially in Italy, don’t you? Portovenere in Italy’s Liguria region is one of my favorite ones.
First and foremost, Portovenere is a stunning coastal town, with the characteristic colorful cluster of houses and dramatic wind-swept cliffs the area is known for. But what’s even better is that Portovenere often gets overlooked by visitors in a hurry to see the nearby Cinque Terre.
Portovenere, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a history that stretches back to Roman times, has that quintessential Italian charm, spectacular seaside views, a medieval castle, dramatic historical sites, and a gorgeous seafront with turquoise water and islands to explore. It honestly doesn’t get more postcard-perfect!
I’ve been to Portovenere and the Cinque Terre multiple times. I love both. But if you’re looking for an ideal spot to fold yourself into the Italian Riviera away from the fevered pace of Cinque Terre village hopping, Portovenere is the place for you.
Whether you visit for the day or stay longer, I’m so glad to share my best tips for making the most of your visit to fantastic Portovenere.
Best Things to Do in Portovenere Italy
Really quickly before we start, did you know that Portovenere is so close to the Cinque Terre that it’s often called the “sixth” village? (Cinque in Italian means five and there are officially five villages that make up the Cinque Terre.)
The UNESCO World Heritage Site that recognizes the Cinque Terre officially includes Portvenere and its islands.
Ok, Andiamo! Let’s see what makes Portovenere a gem that’s well worth a visit!
1. Swoon Over Romantic Portovenere Harbor.
I dare you not to fall in love with Portovenere’s harbor the moment you see the turquoise Ligurian Sea together with the pastel houses!
But there’s a lot more to this pretty facade than you might realize at first glance. This row of houses was there to defend Portovenere from invaders. Luckily today, we can enjoy the harborside vibe without worry.
I’ve spent hours over multiple visits strolling along the promenade, watching the boats, eating (pistachio) gelato, and taking in the Ligurian seaside atmosphere.
The harbor isn’t just for visitors. Aside from a few tourist boats, fishermen work while local teenagers lounge on the rocks in true Ligurian fashion!
I recommend just finding a sunny spot to sit and watch it all and experience the joy of Dolce far niente…the sweetness of doing nothing.
2. Walk Through the Medieval Village.
Enter through the Porta del Borgo gate. It’s another reminder of Portovenere’s ancient defenses. Now, though, it’s simply a marvel that welcomes you to the town’s preserved medieval core.
Just past the gate, you’ll be on Via Capellini, the main street. It’s a colorful, uphill street, with shops, places to stop in for a snack, and of course, the classic lines of laundry hanging from the windows.
I love browsing the family shops here. Don’t miss the chance to taste homemade pesto in Portovenere. It’s not only a specialty of the Liguria region but also some of the best I’ve tasted.
From here, follow the cobblestone alleys as you wish! The village is small and you can’t get lost.
Plus, the higher and deeper you go into the village, the more you’ll begin to see some gorgeous views over the town and the sea.
3. Gaze at the Views of Byron’s Grotto (Grotta di Byron).
Named after the famous British poet Lord Byron, this rocky cove has some of the most breathtaking views in Portovenere.
Soak up the spectacular view from the top of the rocky steps. Then, follow the path down to the water’s edge. The first time I saw the crystal-clear aquamarine sea here I needed an up-close look to confirm it was real!
The water is irresistible on warm days. People like to lounge and sunbathe on the rocks here, slipping into the water easily to swim and cool off.
If you’re staying overnight in Portovenere, come back at sunset. It’s gorgeous! (Or head out on a boat for a sunset cruise.)
4. Don’t Miss the Portovenere’s Chiesa di San Pietro!
The Church of San Pietro is an absolute must-see. You won’t find a more dramatically positioned seaside church in all of Italy. The views from it and of it are incredible! (San Fruttuoso doesn’t exactly count since it’s a monastery.)
If you’ve been to Genoa to see the amazing Cathedral of San Lorenzo, you’ll recognize the Genovese black-striped facade. This part of the church dates back to the 13th century. The other parts are thought to be even older.
Inside, the style is simple, but beautiful nonetheless.
Make sure to walk around the entire church to see it from all angles, especially if you’re hoping to take an amazing photo. Then, be sure to walk along the seaside paths below Castle Doria to get gorgeous views of the entire church on its rocky islet surrounded by the blue sea.
5. Visit Doria Castle (Castello Doria)
Sitting high above Portovenere, Doria Castle has watched over the village since the 12th century and belonged to the powerful Republic of Genoa.
Walk uphill to reach the base of the castle. From there, you’ll be rewarded with a stunning panorama of the Bay of Poets.
For just 5 Euros, you can climb the stone staircases and walk along the castle walls to imagine what it was like for soldiers on patrol here centuries ago.
I am sure you’ll agree that they had incredible views!
6. Step inside the Church of San Lorenzo (Santuario Della Madonna Bianca).
Just below Doria Castle, the Church of San Lorenzo is a hidden gem. It’s a really peaceful part of town and you’ll likely see only a handful of other people here.
The church is home to a painting known as the White Madonna. It’s said that the colors of the painting miraculously brightened after healing Portovenere from the plague in 1399.
The views from outside the church are also worth stopping for.
From here, you can see the Church of San Pietro in the distance and glimpses of the harbor below. If you walk just above San Lorenzo Church, you can see the church’s rooftop with the turquoise water in the harbor.
7. Hike in Portovenere Regional Nature Park.
Liguria’s seaside hiking cliffs are famous and not just the ones in the Cinque Terre. Portovenere Regional Nature Park covers 900 acres that include Portovenere and continues to the nearby islands and protected marine areas.
I’ve done a few short hikes here. In particular, the trail behind Doria Castle leads up to stunning clifftop views where you can look down on the castle’s round turret, the Church of San Pietro in the distance, and sweeping Mediterranean views.
If you have more time, there are plenty of longer trails to hike. You might even discover your own hidden swimming cove!
8. Visit the Island of Palmaria.
Of all the visitors who come to Portovenere, only some of them make the 5-minute boat ride to Palmaria Island. For everyone that does, it feels worlds away from the mainland and the nearby Cinque Terre villages.
Palmaria Island is the biggest of the three islands in the Gulf of La Spezia. Only about 50 people live here. It’s a great spot to hike, e-bike, swim, and relax on the beach. The island has grottoes, like the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), and even a beach club with amenities.
Plus, you’ll have gorgeous views looking back at Portovenere harbor and the Church of San Pietro.
To hike, start from where the boat drops you off on the island in Terrizzo. Follow the path marked 510 that loops Palmaria. The 4-mile hike is moderately challenging but takes you around the island, from the shoreline, through forests, and to peaks where you’ll be rewarded with endless views of the sea and the other two islands in the Bay or Poets. The hike takes about 3 hours, longer if you stop along the way to swim or check out the old military outposts.
9. Relax by the Sea like a Ligurian.
Aside from a longer hike, the sights on this list won’t take a full day. You’ll easily have time to enjoy some “beach” time if you’d like.
The rocky outcroppings in Lord Byron’s Grotto are a popular spot. Palmaria Island has several secluded coves where you can enjoy the seaside and swim. You’ll need to come prepared with your swimsuit under your clothes and a towel.
For a pebbly beach not far from the main promenade, head to Arenella Beach. It’s small but has chairs and umbrellas to rent.
Regardless of where you choose, I recommend bringing some water shoes, though, to manage on the rocky Ligurian coastline.
If you prefer to swim, this snorkeling activity in Portvenere Natural Park could be a lot of fun!
How to get to Portovenere
One of the reasons many tourists skip Portovenere is because there is no train access.
However, Portovenere is just 8 miles from La Spezia and you’ve got several ways to get there.
One thing to note, you may see signs that say “Porto Venere” as two words. This is technically correct but you’ll find both spellings online and even in Italy.
Portovenere by Boat:
The prettiest and easiest way is to take a ferry from La Spezia. It’s a 30-minute ride with breathtaking views of Liguria’s Mediterranean coast.
You can check the seasonal schedule here.
Portovenere by Bus:
From La Spezia, take bus number 11P. It’s about a 30-minute journey.
Tickets cost 3 Euros if you buy your (Code 3) ticket at a Tabaccheria, usually a shop with a big “T” on the sign or a newsstand. You’ll also find self-service bus ticket machines at the train station in La Spezia and tickets for sale at La Spezia’s tourist office.
Otherwise, you’ll pay twice that amount if you buy your ticket on the bus itself.
The bus doesn’t stop near the train station in La Spezia. Instead, catch the bus at the Mercato Nord bus stop which is just a short walk from the train station.
Portovenere by Car:
If you’re driving, it’s important to understand the “route” to success. I’ve driven before and it can be done but to avoid frustration, here’s what I suggest.
Portovenere has just one main parking garage that is at the end of the winding road into town. Parking here will cost more than along the road and you must arrive first thing in the morning before the lot fills.
Otherwise, there is street parking that starts along the winding road and is a walk to the village. The hourly cost depends on which street zone parking you choose. The closer you park to Portovenere the higher the hourly rate will be.
If you’re visiting during busier summer weekends, arrive early so that there’s plenty of parking.
Portovenere by Foot:
The most popular route is via a moderately challenging hiking trail from Riomaggiore (the southernmost Cinque Terre village) to Portovenere. It’s an 8.3-mile hike following trail AV5T (formerly #1) that’ll take about 5 hours.
It comes with incredible views of the sea!
Portovenere Hotels
Portovenere has different types of accommodations from hotels to guesthouses. These are the hotels I recommend you look at first.
- Grand Hotel Portovenere: A luxury hotel with stunning sea views and a perfect position overlooking the harbor.
- Hotel Belvedere: A mid-range hotel with a great location in the old town.
Alternatively, La Spezia is a good base for visiting both Portovenere and Cinque Terre.
Can I Visit Portovenere and the Cinque Terre in 1 day?
Logistically, it’s possible to see Portovenere and some of the Cinque Terre in one day, but I don’t recommend doing this.
It’s a lot to see and manage in one day and you’d end up getting just peeks of each village. The entire day could wind up being a lot less enjoyable than you hoped. I suggest staying at least 2-3 days to really appreciate both Cinque Terre and Portovenere. They’re both among my picks for the best places to visit in northern Italy!
If you’re short on time, here’s a sample itinerary idea:
- Morning: Arrive first thing to visit Portovenere’s harbor, old town, San Pietro Church, and see the views from Byron’s Grotto and higher up near Doria Castle.
- Afternoon: Take the 35-minute boat ride to Riomaggiore (the closest Cinque Terre village). Then, use the train to hop between 2-3 Cinque Terre villages.
- Evening: Return to La Spezia by train. (Alternatively, check the boat schedule to head back to your Cinque Terre or Portovenere hotel.)
This schedule is very tight. It doesn’t allow time to relax or take into account any delays or stops for food. You also have to make sure there’s a ferry at the time you’d need it to avoid losing time.
You could choose a Cinque Terre and Portovenere guided tour by boat. But notice, tours like this often only stop in 1 or 2 Cinque Terre villages and pass by the rest. However, logistically, it could be more enjoyable instead of you trying to make all the pieces work.
Ideally, you’d spend at least a full day in Portovenere. Start with a morning hike, even a partial one, in the Regional Nature Park so you can see the awesome views and just enjoy Liguria’s natural beauty.
Then, you’d have the rest of the day to wander through the medieval streets, see Portovenere’s historic landmarks, and relax by the sea. Later on, you could head out by boat onto the Bay of Poets to watch the sunset as you take a trip around the three islands, Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto.
Finish the day with a delicious dinner of “muscoli,” the local mussels, and a glass of the local white wine made from the Vermentino grape that you see growing along Liguria’s terraced cliffs. Plus, if you stay in Portovenere at night, once the daytrippers have gone, the atmosphere is incredibly romantic.
Have you added Portovenere to your Cinque Terre bucket list yet?!
I hope so!
If you’ve traveled all the way to the Italian Riviera, absolutely visit top spots like the Cinque Terre. But then, save time to enjoy a gem like Portovenere where you can relax and melt into your best Italian Mediterranean life…even if only for a short time!
So, are you ready to plan your visit to Portovenere?
Like this post? Please save it on Pinterest or share it on social media using the share buttons.
