I can’t help returning to Camogli again and again. Aside from being one of the easiest beach day trips from my house, this spectacular little fishing village along Liguria’s Italian Riviera is the perfect blend of authenticity and irresistible charm.
It’s where Italians work on their fishing boats and chat at the bar with a backdrop of confetti-colored houses along a dramatic Mediterranean coastline.
Seriously, how many adjectives can you search for to describe a place that seems to be the reason why the words fairytale and postcard-perfect were invented?
Of course, Camogli isn’t the only place in Italy with pastel houses along the sea. We’ve all heard of Cinque Terre, and Portofino is just a short boat ride from Camogli. But the crowds in these places, especially from June-August, are even more stifling than the hot temperatures.
Given all of this, and coming from someone who visits Camogli regularly and lives nearby, I’ve put together this Camogli travel guide. In it, I share the things to do in Camogli that I love, along with advice on day trips, hiking, where to stay, foods to try, and the logistics of the trains and boats so you can easily get there and move around the area.
Where is Camogli?
Let’s just make sure we’re all looking at the same spot on the map.
Camogli is in the region of Liguria in northern Italy. It borders France to the west, Piemonte to the north, and Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany to the east.
The capital city of Liguria is Genoa (Genova in Italian). It has an international airport, but no direct flights from the U.S. and is the closest major city to Camogli (only 15 miles away).
All of Liguria’s coastline is known as the Italian Riviera, which includes Camogli.
My Favorite Things to Do in Camogli
You can easily explore Camogli in just a day or even part of a day if you don’t plan to spend time on the beach or hike. But, rushing through is the exact opposite of what Camogli is all about.
More than part of the charm is the laid-back atmosphere. It’s a place to sit for lunch or a sunset aperitivo and lounge by the sea.
So, even though I whole-heartedly recommend all of these things as you plan what to do in Camogli, take them with a grain of sea salt and be sure to take time to just get swept up in the magic of Camogli.
Walk along the seaside Promenade.
This seaside promenade runs from the marina and connects the harbor to Camogli’s main beachfront area. It’s one of the prettiest scenes in the Italian Riviera, with the sea on one side and a row of Camogli’s pastel-colored houses on the other.
Like Genoa, Camogli has different levels. The pedestrian promenade, also known as Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, sits lower in the town from the train station on Via XX Settembre. This makes it feel like you’ve “left” the town and “arrived” in the Italian Riviera.
If you arrive by boat instead, the effect is even more dramatic. Camogli’s colorful harbor immediately catches your eye and, as you walk through the short tunnel connecting the harbor to the promenade, it’s like a scene from a movie unfolding with every step.
The purpose of the promenade is pleasure. Stop for un caffe at one of the tiny cafes or take a walk towards the sea and the platform that winds alongside the base of the Basilica. From here, you have a breathtaking vantage point of Camogli’s beachfront.
Along the promenade, you’ll find a couple of overlooks where you can take the classic Camogli photo of the beach that includes the dramatically placed Basilica.
The walk isn’t long, only about 10-15 minutes. I recommend you keep going even when the promenade narrows into an alleyway.
First, go to where the alley opens up again into a small square to see the giant frying pan, a symbol of Camogli’s famous annual fish festival that happens in May. Then, retrace your steps into the narrow alley and stop for a piece of Liguria’s amazing focaccia. Here’s where you’ll find my favorite local bakery.
With your focaccia in hand, head back in the direction of the harbor and check out some of the narrow alleys just behind the waterfront.
Sunbathe and swim at Camogli’s Pebble Beach.
The Spiaggia di Camogli runs parallel to the village’s promenade and is the main attraction, especially for Italians. It’s a pebble and black sand beach with crystal clear water.
There’s a public area where you can sit or lie on your own towel. Although having done it, I’d recommend doubling up on the towels or bringing a thicker mat, especially if you want to spend a few hours relaxing on the beach. Throughout Liguria, sunbathing on pebbly beaches or even big rocks themselves is the norm.
If you want to swim, I’d bring water shoes, too. (Your feet will thank you.)
You can also rent a beach chair and umbrella at one of the private beach clubs (bagni) on the other part of the beachfront. If you’re planning a full day on the beach, this will be a much more comfortable choice.
In the summer, the beach is very crowded so get there early to have your pick of where to sit.
ProTip: At the far end of the beach, opposite the Basilica, there’s another small free beach area that is quieter than the area closest to the church.
Walk around the colorful Fishing Harbor.
At its root, Camogli is a fishing village and you can still see that today as you walk around the harbor. Fishermen tend to their boats and sell their catches from their morning out at sea.
Walk all the way around the harbor, past the stairs to the Basilica and along the walkway in the center of the jetty that protects Camogli from the sea. There’s an old lighthouse, great views of the colorful buildings (especially at sunset), and the buzz of daily life around the port.
I love the Trompe-l’Oeil houses surrounding the harbor. To see what I mean, look for the houses with the fake windows and shutters painted onto the facades of some of the buildings.
Back in the day, it was cheaper to do this than pay for window, stonework, and the related taxes that came with these home improvements. But it turned out to be money well-saved because the effect only adds to Camogli’s charm.
If you visit Camogli for the annual fish festival in early May, known as the Sagra del Pesce, you’ll see the giant fishing pan set up and cooking nearly 3 tons(!) of fish!
Visit the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta.
Climb the stairs from the marina to see this 12th-century church, one the prettiest in the Italian Riviera. The outside from the harbor is an elegantly understated cream color but inside it’s classically Baroque with golden finishes, frescoes, and beautiful hanging candelabras.
It’s breathtaking when you time it right and see all the lights and candles on.
The Basilica still has Mass, so if you go when a religious ceremony is happening, you can’t go inside. But, it’s possible to peek inside from the open doors.
ProTip: Between the church and the castle, there’s a beautiful view of Camogli Beach from this elevated terrace. Don’t miss it!
Climb Castello della Dragonara.
This medieval castle was built to protect Camogli from pirate attacks. The lookout point at the top would have been the best vantage point to see these invaders before they got too close.
Today, it’s possible to walk up to the castle’s panoramic terrace to take gorgeous photos of the sea and Camogli. At sunset, the light is amazing as it reflects off the painted houses.
One thing to note, I’ve been to Camogli many times. It’s hit-or-miss if the castle is open and I haven’t been able to figure out opening days or hours, but I’ve had more luck on weekends.
Either way, if it’s open when you visit, make the climb up the stairs to check out the castle ruins, any exhibitions, and the sweeping views from the panoramic terrace on top.
Learn about Camogli’s Maritime History.
Camogli’s Civic Museum is a small exhibition that tells the story of Camogli’s maritime history. Inside, there are model ships, old navigation tools, historical documents and photos, telescopes, nautical charts, and more.
The highlight, though, was the retired sailor I met who had fascinating stories to tell! The whole experience, though, is unique to Camogli and hyper-local.
The museum is open Tuesday – Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and is free to enter. It’s close to the Camogli train station.
Fun Fact: The word for wife in Italian is “moglie” and the word for house is “casa.” Camogli has a long past as a fishing village. It’s thought the name “Camogli” came from the phrase “case delle moglie” (the wives’ houses) to describe a village full of wives, while the husbands were away at sea, fishing.
Hike to San Rocco.
Whenever anyone asks me what to do in Camogli, hiking to San Rocco is always at the top of the list. If you’ve never visited the area, it’s not obvious that there are hiking trails across the entire peninsula.
It’s not the easiest walk and it’ll take some physical stamina but it’s not technically difficult.
The trail (look for 2 red circles) starts not far from the train station in Camogli. It’s near the Carabinieri station (to the left if your back is to the Carabinieri).
Not so much trail, but even better(!) 900 stone stairs up an old mule track. These are uneven steps inset into the hillside (sneakers required) and a workout! It’ll take about 30-40 minutes depending on how many times you stop to catch your breath take photos.
Once you get to the little church at the top, you’ll have stunning views of the Golfo Paradiso, the Ligurian Sea, Camogli’s pastel-painted houses, and the entire coastline from Genoa to further down the Portofino peninsula.
I recommend going in the morning (before day-trippers arrive) or for the spectacular views later in the day as the sun begins to set over the sea.
ProTip: San Rocco has public bathrooms (in Italy always carry something for toilet paper), a water point to refill your bottle, and a couple of places for something to drink or eat…although during the off-season or at off-peak times, these could be closed.
Continue from San Rocco to Punta Chiappa.
This rocky point between Camogli and San Fruttuoso is one of the most beautiful spots along the Italian Riviera coastline. It’ll take about 30-40 more minutes on foot past San Rocco.
The water is crystal clear and perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Or you can simply sit or sunbathe on the rocks. There are also some incredibly romantic places to eat here while overlooking the sea.
At the church of San Rocco, the path splits. The inland path to the left is currently the only way to hike to San Fruttuoso.
For Punta Chiappa, though, follow the coastal path (via Mortola) on the right. This path is part of a much harder trail to San Fruttuoso that is closed indefinitely. But you can still walk along this coastal path to get to Punta Chiappa.
After about 650 feet, follow the steep path on the right heading down towards the water. You’ll pass by some houses before you get to the church of San Nicolo Capodimonte. The views of the sea from here are incredible.
Follow the (easier) stone steps through the village of Porto Pidocchio or walk along the winding coastal path for better views down to Punta Chiappa.
On a warm day, you won’t be able to resist the water!
Then, when you’re ready to head back to Camogli, take a boat (what I’ve done) or climb the 1000-ish steps back up to the trail to retrace your steps.
Eat all the local specialities.
If you’ve been researching Liguria and the Italian Riviera, you probably already know that the region is known for pesto, focaccia, and seafood.
They’re so delicious that I am publicly admitting to visiting Camogli (from my house in Piemonte) just for focaccia, pesto, and some fresh fish.
The traditional focaccia of the region is golden-brown on the bottom and soft inside. There are different varieties but, if you see me in Camogli, I’ll likely be sitting along the seaside promenade with a square topped with just olive oil and sea salt.
Focaccia di Recco is another type that is much thinner, filled with creamy stracchino cheese, and ridiculously mouth-watering. Revello Focacceria is the place to try it.
I can’t resist the pesto but I always go home with a jar or seven of salsa di noci.
This walnut sauce is served over a pasta called pansotti. They’re triangular and stuffed like a ravioli but with herbs. At this point, you might be stuffed with focaccia and pesto, but the dish is worth trying while you’re in Camogli.
Take Day Trips from Camogli.
Camogli is a perfect base to explore other places along the Italian Riviera coastline like San Fruttuoso, Santa Margherita Ligure, and glitzy Portofino. You can go by train, boat, or even hike using the trails of the Portofino Natural Park.
Here are a few ideas for your visit.
San Fruttuoso Abbey & Its Magical Cove
No matter how long I stay in Italy, I’m always amazed to find tucked-away places like San Fruttuoso. I first visited years ago and have been back many times since. It’s something you just have to see.
San Fruttuoso is only accessible by boat or on foot. From Camogli, you can take a short boat ride from the harbor, which also gives you a chance to see the hidden coves and cliffs of the Ligurian coastline.
On foot, follow the path through the Portofino Natural Park towards San Rocco as mentioned above. Then, stick to the inland path at the split.
The hike is about 4 miles and takes about 2-3 hours depending on your pace and how many breaks you take on the stairs as you climb upward.
Once you descend into San Fruttuoso and its fairytale cove, you’ll see how amazing the payoff is!
Ideally, you’d hike to San Fruttuoso and take a boat back for the best of both worlds.
The 10th-century San Fruttuoso Abbey sits on a tiny beach just near one of the most turquoise swimming coves you’ll ever see. It’s perfect for cooling off and snorkeling. You can also visit the Abbey or sit at one of the restaurants for drinks or lunch.
The water is usually warm enough for swimming from May to October. And if you’re a diver or a confident snorkeler, look for the Christ the Abyss statue underwater about 50 feet down in the bay.
Just be sure to check the times for the last boat back to Camogli (or onward to places like Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Rapallo). Otherwise, you’ll have to hike back or to Portofino from there.
ProTip: If you’re doing this hike in the summer, start as early as possible for the most comfortable temperatures and to have any chance of getting a spot on the tiny beach in San Fruttuoso.
Portofino & Paraggi Beach
Glitzy Portofino is a fantastic day trip from Camogli. Its picturesque harbor couldn’t be prettier if it was painted by Botticelli himself.
With an arc of buildings splashed in pastels, magenta bougainvillea draping the green cliffs above, and the extravagant yachts bobbing in the harbor, Portofino is the epitome of a postcard come to life.
I recommend walking the full length of the harbor and around the main square. Split off to a side lane when something catches your eye and plan lunch overlooking the harbor. (Prices are higher than less-touristy spots along the coastline but the atmosphere and views are classically Italian Riviera.)
Don’t miss the chance to walk up to Castello Brown for stunning harbor views and, if you’re up for it, walk out to see the panorama from the lighthouse.
If you’re hoping for some beach time, Paraggi Beach is between Portofino and Santa Margherita. It’s a 15 minute walk from Portofino or an easy bus ride. The beach is small and pebbly with chairs and umbrellas for rent but one of the prettiest beaches in the area. It fills fast in the summer so get there as early as possible.
Portofino does not have a train station but you can take the train from Camogli to Santa Margherita. After the 8 minute ride, take the bus (#782) from the train station to Portofino. At peak times, the bus can be very crowded.
Personally, I prefer to go by boat when I town-hop in this area of Liguria. The Mediterranean views and the salty breezes are so much nicer than cramming onto the bus.
I confirmed with Golfo Paradiso, one of the primary boat operators in the area, because I get a lot of questions about the boats in this area.
Here’s the best option for a day trip from Camogli.
Take a Golfo Paradiso boat from Camogli to San Fruttuoso. There are departures from Camogli’s harbor approximately every hour. This is a year-round service, although the exact departure times depend on the season. In case of bad weather or unsafe sea conditions, boats will stop running until it’s ok to resume again. Tickets for this cost €17 for a round trip ticket between Camogli and San Fruttuoso and €11 one way.
Then, from San Fruttuoso, take one of the connections to Portofino on ferries operated by another company called, Consorzio Marittimo del Tigullio. They have boats that leave for Portofino, also about every hour from San Fruttuoso, on their “Line 1” route. Check their website for the most up-to-date ticket prices.
Another option if you don’t want the whole day in Portofino is to spend just the afternoon and evening there. The upside is many of the day-trippers will be leaving as you’re arriving.
Here’s what this scenario might look like.
From Camogli, take the Golfo Paradiso boat at 2:50 p.m. directly to Portofino. You won’t stop at San Fruttuoso but you’ll pass by from a distance. Spend time enjoying Portofino, even staying to have dinner there.
If you do this, it’s likely the last boats will have stopped running. But, you can take the bus back to Santa Margherita Ligure’s train station and then the train from there to Camogli. Both the train and the bus run late into the night, making dinner in Portofino possible.
One last thing to keep in mind, the “Line 1” boat operated by the Consorzio Marittimo del Tiguillo has late afternoon and early evening boats to Santa Margherita from Portofino. So, if you planned to do dinner back in Camogli, but still wanted to stay in Portofino into the early evening, it’s doable.
Santa Margherita Ligure
It couldn’t be easier to take a day or half-day trip to Santa Margherita Ligure from Camogli. Trains run between both towns all day and into the late night hours and the ride is just 8 minutes.
Why spend some of your time here?
Santa Margherita is stylish and sophisticated with fewer tourists than nearby Portofino. It has classical architecture, palm-trees lining the seaside promenade, and beaches (public and private).
The waterfront is busy with cafes, markets, and a steady flow of fishing boats, ferries, and yachts. But it’s a perfect place to walk (with gelato, of course!) and enjoy a more laid-back pace, especially if you’ve just come from Portofino.
If you’d like to sightsee, visit Villa Durazzo and its beautiful gardens with views of the sea and stop at the Basilica di Santa Margherita for the elaborate baroque interior.
Portofino Natural Park Trails
Hiking in Portofino and the surrounding area is still one of the most hidden gem things to do in Liguria. The trails in the Cinque Terre might be packed with people, but the 50-ish miles of trails in the Portofino Natural Park are much quieter and come with spectacular sea views.
The park covers the entire Portofino Promontory from Camogli to Santa Margherita Ligure, including the trails I recommended earlier that go to San Rocco, Punta Chiappa, the Portofino lighthouse, and San Fruttuoso.
The trails are marked with red and white paint and are indicated by the thin red line on this map of the trails.
If you hike, wear hiking boots or sneakers that have a good grip because the terrain is rugged, steep, and includes uneven steps and rocks.
The spring and fall are ideal times of the year for comfortable temps and fewer people. Be sure to bring water, snacks, and a portable battery charger for your phone because some areas can feel very remote.
How to Combine Camogli + San Fruttuoso + Portofino in a Day
If all you have is a day to visit these 3 places, this is my experience and review of a day-trip boat that departs from Genoa and gives you the chance to stop in each of these places.
If you’re staying for at least a night in Camogli, you could take the boat from Camogli to San Fruttuoso (or hike there) first thing in the morning. Spend a few hours visiting the Abbey and swimming in the turquoise water.
Then, take a boat (or hike) from San Fruttuoso to Portofino for lunch. Spend the afternoon visiting Portofino or lounging on Paraggi Beach.
In the early evening, before the last boat, go from Portofino to Santa Margherita and take the train from there back to Camogli for dinner. Or take the bus from Portofino to the train station in Santa Margherita, and a train to Camogli from there.
Visit the Cinque Terre.
If you’re using Camogli as a base, you can spend the day visiting the 5 iconic villages of the Cinque Terre. Ideally, you’d spend a few days in the Cinque Terre, but many people visit on a day trip. And you’ll be no more rushed than someone else coming from Florence or Milan.
For the fullest day, take an early morning train from Camogli to Monterosso al Mare. Look for direct trains that get you there in an hour.
Monterosso is the northernmost Cinque Terre village. From there, you can use the train via your Cinque Terre card to travel to each village. Or you can hike along a section of the famous Blue Trail (Sentiero Azzurro), for example Monterosso to Vernazza. (Check out this guide for more important Cinque Terre tips before you go.)
Depending on your pace and what you want to do, it’ll be possible to hike between 2 villages and take the train to the other villages before catching a direct evening train back to Camogli from Monterosso.
Spend a day in Genoa.
There’s plenty to see and do in Genoa for a day…or more, which you can check out in my Genoa travel guide. It’s one of the most underrated cities in northern Italy and worth some time on your Italy itinerary.
Trains run all day between Genoa and Camogli. Direct trains take only about 30-40 minutes.
Genoa has a revitalized seaport promenade, a historic center with beautiful architecture, porticoed walkways, and an imposing cathedral over 900 years old.
The Genoa Aquarium is the biggest in Italy. But I prefer to explore the city’s history and culture through places like the Royal Palace of Genoa, the UNESCO-recognized Rolli Palaces, Genoa’s historic lighthouse, and the exhibitions on display at the Palazzo Ducale.
Plus, there’s no shortage of Pesto Genovese.
ProTip: There are so many hidden gem towns along the Italian Riviera that you can get to by train from Camogli. If you’re open to exploring a bit take a look at Sestri Levante, Rapallo, Moneglia, Zoagli, Chiavari.
Where to Stay in Camogli
The most popular areas to stay in Camogli are close to the beachfront and harbor. These give you direct sea access with less hills and stairs to navigate to get around the village on foot.
You’ll also find places to stay in the upper part of the village. It’ll be quieter, more local, and usually will have great views because of the elevated position. This is also likely to be a more affordable option.
Camogli isn’t big. So to walk from these areas is not necessarily far, but they’re uphill/up stairs from the beach and harbor areas. Like in the Cinque Terre villages, you may need to also manage hills or stairs from the train or boat to your hotel with luggage.
Here are a few hotel picks to help your trip planning.
Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi: This 4-star hotel is right on the water for amazing views of the sea from your room. There’s a pool, private beach, and terraces with panoramic views.
La Camogliese Hotel B&B: This 3-star hotel is in an excellent location along the pedestrian promenade, with easy-access stairs to walk onto the beach.
Practical Tips for Visiting Camogli
Overall, Camogli is a pretty straightforward place to visit. These tips are based on my own, repeated visits to Camogli to help you stress less over the logistics and just enjoy your time in this beautiful village.
How to Get to Camogli (Train, Ferry, Car)
My top recommendations are to go by train or ferry. Driving is tough to do at peak times and parking is almost impossible.
By Train: Regional trains run regularly from Genoa and the ride takes about 30-40 minutes. You can also find trains from Milan. Some are direct but most have a connection in Genoa. The ride takes about 2 1/2 hours. Search on Trenitalia or use a train booking platform like Omio.
Important: The Camogli train station is only about 3-5 minutes on foot from the beach and harbor. But the station is higher than the part of town by the water. You need to use the elevator across from the station (which is sometimes closed) or the stairs from the street to go between the waterfront and the train station.
By Ferry: From April to October, ferries run from Genoa, Portofino, and other coastal spots in Liguria.
By Car: I’ll say it again. I would not drive to Camogli, especially in the summer. If you must, you’ll take the autostrada to a certain point and finish by driving to Camogli via a winding, coastal road.
ProTip: If you’re road-tripping and can’t help but have a car, here’s something I’ve personally done. Drive to Genoa, set your navigation to this parking garage. It’s right next to the Genoa Brignole Train Station. From there, take the train to Camogli. This is a good option if your goal is only to visit Camogli for the day. Plus, the trains run often so you can make the most of your time and not worry about trains running later in the day.
Parking Tips (If You Must Drive)
Parking in Camogli (and most places throughout the Italian Riviera) is almost non-existent. I wouldn’t even attempt it on a weekend or during the summer.
If you do drive and find one of the scarce free parking spots on the street, I’d also suggest you buy a lottery ticket since it’s clearly your lucky day. (Free parking has white lines.)
The better plan is to head straight to one of the paid parking lots, like the Parcheggio Communale near the train station.
Either way, plan to get to Camogli as early as possible and definitely before 10 a.m.
If all else fails, check for parking in Recco where there’s more parking and then use the bus or a ferry to get to Camogli.
When to Visit Camogli
I’ve been to Camogli many times and during all different times of the year.
The best time to go is in April and May or September and October. It’s the best combination of fewer visitors, comfortable weather, and when all the shops and restaurants are open.
This is also the best time of year to hike. It’s also still possible to plan some time on the beach, with September being a great time for summer-like weather and warm water for swimming.
My personal favorite is spring, just be mindful of Camogli’s annual Fish Festival, usually around the first weekend of May. It’s a fun event, but the village is very busy.
Summer, of course, is the best beach weather, but it’s also Camogli’s busiest, hottest, and most expensive time. Camogli is popular with Italians so if you want to stay in Camogli in the summer, book your hotel early and, if possible, make reservations for restaurants, too.
Winter in Camogli is quiet. Many restaurants and hotels close for some, if not, all of the season. Ferries might pause their schedules or run less often. But depending on trail conditions, it could also be good for hiking, especially on chilly days with a lot of sun.
How Many Days in Camogli
You can see the village of Camogli and have a few hours on the beach in just a day. If you want to do all of that and hike beyond San Rocco, plan on at least 2 days.
Camogli makes a good base, though. So if your plan is to visit Portofino, San Fruttuoso, and enjoy the Italian Riviera for a few days, take a good look at Camogli. It has good train and boat connections. The beach is beautiful. And, the town is a lovely blend of local and all the things visitors need like restaurants and shops, to be comfortable. Plus, it’s unquestionably more affordable than Portofino.
What to Pack
This isn’t a comprehensive Italy packing list. But after visiting Camogli many times, these are the specific things I was glad to have.
- Sunscreen
- Sunhat (or some type of hat for sun protection)
- Refillable water bottle
- Water shoes
- Beach towel (preferably one with some thickness for comfort on the pebbles)
- Proper sneakers or hiking boots for the trails
- Daypack (for snacks, band-aids, water, etc)
- Portable charger to keep your phone charged (lots of photo-taking and for safety on the hiking trails)
Consider this your sign to visit Camogli!
Camogli is one of the prettiest villages along the Italian Riviera coastline and perfectly positioned to enjoy all the area has to offer. It’s still an active fishing harbor with plenty of authenticity that’ll make you feel like a welcomed guest in a quintessential Italian village by the sea.
When you go, look for me. I’ll be the one on the promenade with a square of focaccia in hand adding to my collection of photos of beautiful Camogli.
What questions do you have about planning a trip to Camogli and the Italian Riviera?
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